How Hemp Fabric is Made: Step-by-step Process

Hemp fabric is produced from the fibers of the hemp plant. The hemp production process begins with the cultivation of the Cannabis Sativa Plant, followed by harvesting the stalks, extracting fiber through retting, breaking, scutching, and hackling. The fibers are processed into yarn and fabric through spinning, weaving, or knitting, followed by a finishing process.   

What is Hemp Fabric?

Hemp is a natural fiber fabric made from durable, eco-friendly, and long fibers produced from the hemp (cannabis sativa) plant. Hemp is one of the oldest crops, dating back thousands of years.

The fabric has been used to build different products, including clothing, canvas, rope, and paper. It is popular for its natural strength, breathability, durability, antibacterial, and hypoallergenic properties. 

Why is hemp becoming popular in sustainable fashion?

Hemp is gaining popularity for its eco-friendly nature, driven by the conscious consumer choice for sustainable fashion. Consumers nowadays are using nature-friendly, durable items from brands that are manufactured with a genuine commitment to sustainability. Additionally, fashion brands such as Patagonia and Stella McCartney are adopting hemp and promoting a sustainable lifestyle. 

The plant is one of the rapidly growing plants that doesn’t require any chemicals or requires less water. Likewise, hemp possesses environmentally friendly qualities such as mold and UV resistance, breathability, hypoallergenic properties, and antibacterial properties. The increasing popularity of hemp shows a transformation towards valuing nature-friendly fibers, reflecting that hemp is an important fiber for a more responsible fashion future. 

Hemp Fabric Production Process

The production of hemp fabric begins with transforming the tall, sturdy stalks of the industrial hemp plant into soft, durable fibers through various steps. 

Step 1: Cultivating Hemp Plants

The first step is cultivating the industrial hemp plants, also known as Cannabis Sativa. The plants are grown until their stalks become strong. Not all hemp is used for fabric; some hemp is also used for other purposes, such as making materials and food products. 

Some of the eco-friendly farming benefits of hemp are: 

• The hemp plant grows fast with less water. 
• It doesn’t require heavy chemicals such as insecticides or pesticides. 
• Hemp improves soil health by returning nutrients to the planet and preventing erosion. 

Step 2: Harvesting the Hemp

Hemp is ready to harvest after 90 to 120 days of cultivation. The plant is harvested once it reaches the stalk maturity stage, when the fibers grow strong, but the seeds are still in the maturing stage.

Harvesting can be done manually with sickles or scythes for small-scale hemp farming. However, mechanical harvesting is done for large-scale production, cutting the stalks close to the ground and laying them in swaths. 

Step 3: Retting the Hemp Stalks

Retting is a microbial process that breaks down the pectins and natural gums, binding the fibers to the woody part of the stalk. This process helps in segregating long bast fibers. The types of retting are discussed below: 

1. Water Retting:  Water retting is a process of submerging the harvested hemp in water to dissolve pectin. 
2. Dew Retting: It is a process of leaving harvested stalks in a field to decompose naturally, extracting plant fibers. 
3. Enzymatic Retting: The process of using enzymes to dissolve the pectins in a controlled environment. 
4. Chemical Retting: Using a chemical agent to minimize bacterial growth. A chemical retting is a less sustainable option due to environmental pollution concerns. 

Step 4: Breaking and Scutching

After the stalks are dried, they become fragile and can break easily. They undergo breaking, where they are crushed through a set of rollers. These rollers crack the hard, woody shell, which makes it easy to separate from the soft, flexible fibers inside. 

Scutching is defined as a process of scraping and removing woody parts to get raw fibers. It is another main process where the broken stalks are beaten by the rotating paddles. It removes all the loose, woody pieces, and the remaining long, raw fibers are ready for further processing.  

Step 5: Hackling (Combing the Fibers)

Hackling is combining the raw fibers from the sets of metal pins. The step is done to align the long fibers to remove any remaining impurities and create smooth and continuous strands. 

After hackling, the fiber became smooth and lustrous, ready for spinning into a strong yarn. 

Step 6: Spinning Hemp Fibers Into Yarn

Previously, hackled hemp fibers were spun by hand with the help of a spindle or a spinning wheel to twist them into a yarn. The method is still in use in some artisan production. 

However, for modern commercial production, industrial spinning machines draw out the fibers and add twist. These machines, such as rotor spinners, create a high-strength yarn effectively and on a large scale. 

Step 7: Weaving or Knitting the Yarn Into Fabric

The spun yarns are woven on looms, where two sets of yarns (warp and weft) are combined at right angles. This process creates a strong, structured, and durable fabric and is used to manufacture items like jeans, canvas, and towels. 

Likewise, the yarn can also be knitted, a process where loops are joined with needles. This creates a flexible, stretchable, and softer fabric, perfect for making t-shirts, sweatshirts, and other apparel. 

Step 8: Dyeing and Finishing Hemp Fabric

The final step is dyeing the natural hemp fabric, which is a beige or brownish color. The steps are the same process as cotton because of their shared cellulose nature. It can be colored using both synthetic and natural dyes. It is mixed with a mordant to make it easy to dye and bind to the fiber. Then the dye mix is prepared with the fabric and dye solution, and it follows the soaping and drying steps. 

Additionally, finishing techniques are applied after dyeing to improve the quality of the fabric. It involves a softening process, either through mechanical milling or enzymatic methods. The hemp fabric is usually mixed with other fibers, such as organic cotton, silk, or linen, to combine the strengths of different materials, enhancing properties like softness or stretch.   

Use Cases of Hemp Fabric

Hemp fabric is used as a versatile and eco-friendly material in everyday products. 

1. Clothing: 

Hemp clothing is best for everyday use. It is used for shirts, pants, activewear, and dresses due to its breathability and durable properties. Its moisture-wicking properties and UV resistance make it a perfect choice for outdoor activities, especially in summer weather. 

Explore our ethical clothing collection, featuring a range of stylish and eco-friendly options. 

2. Home Textiles: 

Hemp can also be used as home decor. The fabric is designed for curtains, upholstery, towels, and bed sheets. Its long-lasting, highly absorbent, and antimicrobial features make it best for bathrooms and bedrooms. 

3. Accessories: 

From everyday carry to attending any functions, hemp perfectly elevates as an everyday accessory. It can be used as bags, hats, wallets, and shoes.

Check out our organic hemp bags and summer hemp hats collection for durable and eco-friendly designs that enhance your lifestyle. 

4. Industrial Products: 

Hemp is also used for manufacturing industrial materials, including ropes, canvas, and sustainable packaging. It has been used in sails and rigging in the past, and today it is used in modern shipping, agriculture, and the arts. 

Is hemp fabric more expensive?

Hemp fabric costs more than conventional fabrics, such as cotton or synthetic. However, the price varies depending on factors such as quality, processing methods, and the properties of the materials. 

The higher costs come from several factors, as listed below: 

• Farming:  Even though hemp plants are among the most efficient plants to grow easily, their cultivation and processing into the final product are highly monitored. It is usually grown in remote areas where there is a limited supply of modern equipment, which eventually increases the costs. 
• Processing: The process of transforming hemp stalks into soft, wearable fiber requires time and equipment. There are steps involved, such as retting, spinning, and knitting, and the process is usually longer compared to other production processes, such as cotton. 
• Economies of Scale:  Compared to other fabric production methods, hemp production is usually carried on a smaller scale, so the price eventually increases. 

Furthermore, hemp fabric may be expensive, but it lasts much longer than other readily available fabrics on the market. It is a cost-effective solution for the long run. For example, a hemp t-shirt might cost more than a cotton one, but it will last longer than several cotton shirts. 

Conclusion

Overall, the production of hemp fabric begins with cultivating the plant and continues to the final fabric, making it both smarter and more sustainable. The process is lengthy, but the outcome is very attractive with a material that stands out from other fabrics. Additionally, it is also perfect due to its nature-friendly properties, such as durability, breathability, and a lower carbon footprint. 

The fabric is also beneficial due to its versatility for various uses, from everyday wear to home textiles, making it a perfect choice for eco-conscious consumers. So, if you are someone looking for a fabric that is versatile, timeless, and sustainable, choosing hemp products is a greater step toward a greener future. 

Now that you know how hemp fabric is made, why not experience it by using yourself? 
See our collection of eco-friendly hemp products, from daily wear hemp clothing to versatile hemp bags, hemp backpacks, and sustainable hemp hats for a hot climate, designed for comfort, durability, and sustainability. Shop sustainable hemp products and take a step toward a greener, more sustainable future.

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